Restaurant review | Dela – "Scandi offerings"

BPL445 19 December 2019

A top Easton brunch stop that has its own crockery for sale

This old Victorian factory feels like it was always destined to host east Bristol (Eastonian?) brunchers – high ceilings and windowed walls make it a very pleasant place to be indeed, especially when it’s raining sleetily outside.

We take our seats next to one of the massive windows then head to the bar to give our orders. We wait in anticipation for our delicious-sounding food in this beautifully lit room. The white walls and simple wooden tables and chairs would give off a classroom vibe if it were not for the casual addition of a marble-topped bar, and greenery filling every corner.

Back in 2017 after a few successful pop-ups at the incomparable Hart’s Bakery near Temple Meads, Mike Orme and his business partner opened Dela (which means ‘share’ in Swedish) with the aim of creating a welcoming space for all kinds of people and purposes.

BPL445 19 December 2019Mike inherited the disused factory in a pretty unfinished state and initially there was a lot of work to be done, but with the help of friends, the bricks were whitened and the surfaces scrubbed clean in preparation for a unique eatery. This community-focused approach seems to have bled into every part of Mike’s business: next door and upstairs are Mivart Street Studios, also owned by Mike, where all kinds of creatives – from furniture-makers to performers – meet, work and rehearse. The building’s multifactedness results in evenings dedicated to wreath-making, cookery classes and the celebration of African art. 

Dela, with its exposed industrial pipework and its own crockery for sale next to the bar piled high with an array of sweets, has earthy ethos at its heart. Two thirds of the menu is vegan and, wonderfully, all ingredients are seasonal, local and organic where possible – fish is freshly caught off the West Coast and vegetables are supplied by Incredible Edible Bristol in Frenchay.

Our food starts to arrive – we chose juices that sound like they contain the entirety of a vegetable patch and look like they’re made of Skittles, such is their colour, but I know they’re anything but. There’s also plenty of local beers, ciders, organic wines and spirits.

BPL445 19 December 2019

My ‘Dela bowl’ is Sandridge Farm bacon, pastrami seasoning, and a poached egg on top of seasonal greens, sauteed potatoes and soft herb sauce while my dining companion’s is goat curd, squash and lentils. Both are gorgeous and filling – my bacon tastes of salty, fatty goodness and all the better for knowing it probably comes from an ethical source. The squash’s sugary sweetness is complemented by the herby sauce and creamy curd.

We take a slice of chocolate Guiness cake and a couple of coffees to round things off, the latter of which come in beautiful handmade mugs topped with pretty latte art.

Dela is open seven days a week for brunch, daily lunch specials, homemade cake, coffee and drinks. Opening hours are: Monday–Saturday: 9am–4pm, Sunday: 10am–3pm. Brunch and lunch are available until 3pm.

Caitlin Bowring

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Mivart St, Bristol BS5 6JF / info@delabristol.com / 0117 951 1499

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