Yurt Lush is a real culinary treat, writes Sammy Milton
Yurt Lush (which is in, fact, a bona fide Mongolian yurt) has been well known as one of the best places to grab a drink after work around Temple Meads. Ideally situated tucked away just behind the station, it’s been serving thirsty commuters and local office workers alike, and has a sun terrace out the front for when it finally warms up a bit.
It’s under the same famed umbrella as Root in Wapping Wharf and boasts a menu created by head chef Oscar Davies in collaboration with Josh Eggleton. With this in mind, they’ve got lots of tasty dishes to offer, all made with local and sustainable ingredients. We thought we’d pay them a visit last week to see what they can offer the hungry after-worker.
Once seated inside the impressively warm and comfortable yurt, the first thing we noticed was the service. Everyone who works here is friendly, and more than happy to talk the menu through with you. The menu in question that evening was six specially selected small plates, each as diverse as the last. On the recommendation of three plates per person, we ordered the whole lot and waited in anticipation.
Up first was a pan-roasted cauliflower steak with tempura cauliflower, with a light salsa of chimichurri. I admit, this one was a bit of a revelation for me – I’m not usually a fan of cauliflower, but this dish changed my perception entirely. The ‘steak’ was cooked well, still retaining the vegetable’s natural juiciness, whilst the chimichurri added an interesting intensity of flavour. The tempura was also fantastic – light and completely devoid of grease.
Then came sautéed wild mushrooms on toast, slick with a rich garlic butter coating. Oh this was lovely – the mushrooms were of all shapes and sizes, full of flavour, set atop a thick piece of sourdough. A perfect breakfast or post-work snack to have with drinks.
Polenta and cheese chips with garlic mayonnaise came next. Three thick-cut chips of fluffy polenta, these were perfectly seasoned and drizzled with Parmesan cheese. Excellent for dipping in the thick, creamy sauce (very garlicy, mind), these were hot and tasty – a little taste of indulgence.
Salmon fishcakes with landcress and pools of spicy cayenne were slightly underwhelming. Whilst the fishcakes themselves were perfectly formed and cooked flawlessly, the taste of the salmon didn’t really shine through. However, the onglet steak with burnt onion purée, pickled red cabbage, mustard and landcress was an outstanding dish. The onglet was the best cooked cut I’ve ever tried and the juxtaposition between the contrasting accompaniments made for a one-of-a-kind meal.
I’ve saved the best for last. A circular dish of truffle custard, topped with a rich hen’s egg and served with buttered soldiers. Unlike anything I’ve come across before, this was unctuous, seriously decadent eating. Whilst the flavour of the truffle was present, it wasn’t overbearing, which can so often be the case, and the richness was grounded by the egg. We liked it so much we ordered more soldiers – the perfect dish for when you’ve had a few too many.
Yurt Lush are doing some very clever things in a most unique restaurant space. Not just a stop-off for when your train’s delayed, this place is a real eating destination – make the journey and see for yourself.
Clock Tower Yard, Temple Meads, Bristol BS1 6QH