Cosying up on Corn Street


The Cosy Club might be in one of the city's most beautiful buildings, but it's the food that has the real wow-factor, says Emma Dance

Even before we’d eaten a mouthful of food or taken a sip of a drink at the Cosy Club on Corn Street we were already impressed. This is a venue with a serious wow-factor! 

Formerly the home of the National Provincial Bank, and even a church at some point in history, it just oozes opulence. Bath stone walls and columns, vast glass-domed ceilings and intricate frescos scream glamour, while the stags’ heads and portraits adorning the walls add a touch of the Cosy Club’s signature quirky style.

Although it is a large space, it has been cleverly divided into different areas so it never feels overwhelming. We were seated in the main dining area in the centre of the building and next to the bar which so we could really soak up the buzzy Friday-night atmosphere.

Once we had finished gushing over our surroundings we were ready to get down to the serious business of the evening – the food.

The starter section of the menu seemed to be weighted heavily in favour of salad-based dishes which were no good for my greenery-shunning husband, so instead we decided to choose a selection of three dishes from the tapas section of the menu (£11.95 for three) which proved to be an excellent decision. 

The goats cheese and spinach croquettes were very more-ish, while the salt and pepper squid was perfectly cooked with not a hint of rubberiness. The real triumph however was the beer-battered chorizo. I don’t know why I’ve never tasted these little bites of deliciousness before, but I plan to again – very soon.

There was lost to tempt us on the mains section of the menu with the burgers, crab linguine and game stew all looking very appealing. In the end however we decided to go with the recommendations of our waitress  – for me a 35-day-aged ribeye steak with creamed wild mushrooms and spinach and triple-cooked chips (£19.95) accompanied by a green peppercorn sauce (£1.50), and for my husband a roast fillet of seabass with champ mash and pancetta cream sauce (£13.50).

I’d ordered my steak medium-rare and that’s exactly how it arrived – pink, juicy and melt-in-the-mouth soft. The chips could have been a tiny bit crisper, with a tiny bit more seasoning to achieve the same level of perfection as the steak – but they were still very enjoyable.

Husband’s sea bass was cooked just as well, with the skin crisp and the fish still moist, and the pancetta cream sauce added a decadent element.

Impressed with the recommendations for the main course we decided to consult our waitress again when it came to the desserts – and once again she came up trumps.

My salted caramel cheesecake (£5.50) was lighter than it looked (which was a relief as it was enormous!) and the saltiness in the caramel and the popcorn topping worked well against the sweetness and husband’s chocolate and hazelnut mini doughnuts with butterscotch sauce (£5.95) were little mouthfuls of deliciousness.

While it might have been the building that impressed us when we arrived, it was the food that left the biggest and best lasting impression.

The Cosy Club
31 Corn Street
Old City 
0117 253 0997

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